Outer CV Joint Change

This section of SWDubs will list how to remove and replace an outer CV joint on a mk2 VW Scirocco. This guide can also be used on all other mk1 Golf based cars.

Disclaimer : SWDubs.co.uk accept no responsibility for any of the information contained within this document or the accuracy thereof. It is intended as a helpful guide and is solely based on personal experience. The authors also wish to stress that the methods highlighted are centred around personal opinion and there may be other equally credible ways of performing this conversion.

cv joint changeEquipment:

The equipment you will need for this is:

Ratchet – 13mm, 16mm, 17mm, 22mm.

Spanner – 16mm, 17mm

Torque wrench (breaker bar)

Flat head screw driver

pair of pliers

Copper Hammer


Axel stand

Ball Joint Splitter

How To:


cv joint change - hub nut

To start with you will need to take the centre cap off of your wheels to expose the hub nut. Then use a breaker bar with a 22mm socket to loosen the hub nut. This will be on tight, so it might be a bit difficult to undo. Once the hub nut is loosened (not removed though) loosen all of wheel bolts with a 17mm socket.

Once the wheel bolts are loose jack the car up on the front jacking point (just behind the wheel) and then use an axle stand under the front wishbone joint to stabilize the car ready for you to work on the CV joint.

cv joint change start



Once you have jacked up the front of the car you can now continue to take off the front wheel. Once the wheels is off you will see the front break disc, break caliper, carrier, the bottom of the strut and the loosened hub nut. You will also see the tie rod and tie rod end. These are all things that you will need to remove to get at the CV joint that you wish to change.


cv joint change ball joint splitter


The first thing that you will need to remove is the tie rod end from the hub.

You will need to you a ball joint splitter to remove the tie rod from the hub, but first you will need to undo the 17mm nut on the underside of the tie rod.

Once the nut is off and set aside (so you remember where it came from) you will need to get the ball joint splitter out.

There are two different types of ball joint splitters, the type that I am using (to the right) and the bar type. With the type of splitter I am using you simple place the splitter on the ball joint as shown in the picture, and then do up the bolt with either a 19mm socket or spanner. The splitter will put pressure on the tie rod from the underneath and eventually pop the ball joint out.

cv joint change brake bolts


Once the ball joint is popped and the tie rod is free from the hub you can just move it to one side.

Next you will need to remove the brake caliper from the hub. There are two 13mm bolts on the back of the caliper that you will need to remove. These two bolts can be difficult to get good access to, but once loose it should be easy.

Once the bolts are removed you can simply slip the caliper and carrier off of the disc and away from the hub.

cv joint change brake caliper


Once the caliper and carrier is off of the hub you will need to get it out of the way of the rest of the work. To do this you can take off the brake line, cap up the brake line to save from all of the brake fluid draining out, and then placing the caliper and carrier somewhere safe. I personally cannot be bothered with bleeding the brakes again once you have put it all back together again, so what you can do is use a cable tie and use it to hang the caliper and carrier somewhere safe.

cv joint change hanging the brake caliper


I first chose the strut to hang the caliper up, but then realised that it would be in the way, I then chose a nut on the gearbox to hang it. This was out the way and worked very well.

If you decide to hang the caliper up, make sure you do not stretch or brake the brake line in any way.

cv joint change bottom ball joint


The next thing that you will need to undo is the bottom ball joint. The bottom ball joint is held on by a 17mm nut and bolt.

You will need to undo this nut and bolt with either two ratchets with 17mm sockets on, or a ratchet and 17mm and a 17mm spanner (patronizing i know).

Once the nut and bolt are undone and out you will now need to pop out the bottom ball joint.

There are several ways to do this, and it is easier to have an extra person to help you push the wishbone down away from the hub, but you can push down and pop the ball joint out with a flat head screw driver

*Warning* make sure that you do not damage the bottom ball joint as you pop it out.


Once you have removed the tie rod, brake caliper and carrier and have popped out the bottom ball joint you can now remove the central hub nut with a 22mm socket.

Once the hub nut is off, you can then pull the hub away from the CV joint. Because the strut is still attached you will not be able to remove the hub. I have left the strut attached because if you take the hub off you will then have to get the tracking done on the car once you are finished, but because we are not moving the position of the strut we do not have to bother getting the tracking done again using this method.

cv joint change old and new cv joint


Once the hub is separated from the you will be able to see the CV joint that you will be replacing.

The image to the right shows the old and new CV joints next to each other. You can see that the old joint is a little old and rusted and ready to be changed.


cv joint change cv boot removal


The first thing that you will need to do is to remove the old ties that are holding on the boot onto the CV joint. Depending upon the type of tie holding on the boot.

The original VW ties are a pain, but can be removed with a little work and a pair of pliers. Be careful when removing the ties that you do not damage the boot, though you will be replacing it with the CV joint.

Once both the front and back ties are off of the boot you will be able to push the boot back to expose the back of the CV joint.

The CV joint is held onto the drive-shaft by a cir-clip and will not just pull off. To get the CV joint off you will need to pivot the CV joint all the way to one way to expose the start piece in the center of the CV joint. You will then need to use a copper hammer to knock off the CV joint.

The CV joint will need some persuading to get off, but keep on pivoting the joint and knocking the joint until it comes off. I am sorry to say that I do not have any images of this, but it is a very messy job, and I didn’t want to have a camera covered in CV grease!

Once the old CV joint it off, you can now open your brand new CV joint kit.


To the right there is an image of the inside of the new CV joint. If you hold the new CV joint like this and open the new packet of CV grease that will have some with the CV kit. Once open you will need to fill the new CV with the CV grease before fitting. Squirt the grease directly into the new joint and push as much in as you can.

Once you have worked the grease into the joint (there will be some grease left, just squirt this into the boot when fitting) you will need to slip the new CV boot and tie on to the drive shaft.

Once the boot is on you will need to fit the spring washer (with the outside edges pointing out) and then the spacer washer onto the drive-shaft. You will need to just slide these as far up the drive-shaft as you can. You will then need to remove and fit the new cir-clip. The old cir-clip will be positioned in a recess near the end of the drive-shaft. To remove the old cir-clip you can simple apply pressure to each end of the cir-clip with two flat head screw drivers. There is a VW tool to remove the cir-clip, but i didn’t have one. Once the old clip is out simple pop in the new clip from your kit.

Once the boot, washers and cir-clip are on you can slip the new CV joint onto the drive-shaft. Simply wiggle it until the splines are lined up and it pushes on.

cv joint change new cv joint fitted


Once the CV joint it on, you will then need to squeeze the rest of the CV grease into the boot and pull the boot onto the joint. Then either use the ties supplied in the CV kit (I found them a bit crap tbh) or use cable ties to secure the boot in place on the CV joint. Now that the large end of the boot is secure pull the small end up so that it is in the same place as before and then secure it with either the supplied tie or a cable tie.

Now that the new CV joint is on move the joint around from side to side to check movement.

To start refitting all other part you must first pull the hub back in front of the CV joint and maneuver the CV joint into place.

cv joint change hub nut refitting


Once the CV joint is back in place fit the new hub nut that should have been supplied with the CV kit. Do the nut up finger tight, you will need to tighten it more at the end anyway.

cv joint change bottom ball joint refitting

The next task is to relocate the bottom ball joint and pop it back into the hub. This can be very tricky as you will need to push down on the wishbone while positioning the hub in the right place to stop the bottom ball joint moving out of line.

The best way if you are on your own is to move the ball joint so it points slightly backwards. Then push the wishbone down with your foot and locate the hub onto the the ball joint, then gently move the ball joint with a screwdriver until it is straight and then just push down on the hub to pop it in.


Once the bottom ball joint is in, simply replace the 17mm nut and bolt and do back up again until tight.

cv joint change tie rod end refitting


Next you will need to refit the tie rod end. This is simply a case of moving the hub into place and dropping the tie rod end into the hole. You will need to give the top of the tie rod end a little hit with the copper hammer to knock it into place, but then you just refit the 17mm nut onto the thread and do it up tight.

cv joint change brake refitting


Last but not least you will need to refit the brake caliper and carrier.

All you will need to do is slide the brake caliper and carrier back onto the disc and refit the 13mm bolts to the back of the carrier. Because you did not remove the brake lines you will not have to bleed the brakes before using the car again.

Once everything is back together again double check all blots and nut that you have removed and replaced to make sure they are tight (except for the hub nut at this point.

cv joint change - hub nut


Now that everything is refitted, put the wheel back on and do the wheels bolts up. Once the wheel is back on remove the axle stand and drop the car back down to the floor.

Once the car is back on all fours get your torque wrench out and fit the 22mm socket. Now do the hub nut up to 180ft/lbs of torque. Its a hell of a lot of torque, so get ready to strain.

Once the hub nut is tighten to the correct torque, refit the hub cover and then tighten up the wheel bolts.


That’s it, all done.

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